“The vigneron gets life from the vineyard and gives life to the vineyards,” believes Xavier Cailleau. He and his wife Géraldine live and breathe this philosophy at the family’s Chateau de Bois-Brinçon. The domaine dates to 1219, when it was founded by the Saint Jean d’Angers Hospital in the heart of Anjou. Since reconnecting the domaine with its tradition of winemaking in 1991, Xavier and Géraldine have led a deeply thoughtful conversion of all their vineyards to biodynamic farming, in the belief that “the right gesture at the right time in permanent awareness of respect for nature” is the key to making wines that express their mosaic of varied terroirs. With some of the oldest plantings of chenin, grolleau, and cabernet franc — 125 years and older — in the Loire, Xavier and Géraldine see their role as stewards of this heritage, using natural practices from a variety of disciplines for “vinification by terroir.” The chenins are defined by their vitality and intensity; the cab francs by their silky delicacy.
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